45. BOMBAY

I know it is now called Mumbai but I will always call it Bombay. That is the name I know it by.

At first I had decided to skip Mumbai as it is a subject in itself, a place in itself and too much of a subject to be covered in this blog.

As this Blog is about Costal India, it would have been an anomaly to skip Mumbai. Nobody can ignore Mumbai be it the MNCs of New York or the terrorists from Pakistan. All of them find something to do with this place. The problem for THEBLUEDRIVE is of time and choice of what do look for. Ultimately I decided to do  a very selective note on South Mumbai.

South Bombay invoked nearly four decades of personal memories of various types.

The walks from Churchgate to VT in hot afternoons. The business meetings in congested offices and equally congested restaurants.

 Spending time in South Mumbai on a Saturday evening made a huge difference. For once South Bombay and I saw each other, relaxed.

My alma mater. She gave me three degrees between 1978 and 1983.

The stretch from VT to Handloom House, the opposite side where I hunted for my philatelic material bargaining with the Mukhis and Slatewallas of India’s philatelic world. The old Mr. M M Mukhi selling me my first stockbook is a memory which is almost 40  years old now. I still have the stockbook. In many cases stamps I can even now tell where I bought the piece and at what price. I wish this hobby had continued but it now appears that is heading rapidly to its demise. I will however continue to collect and perhaps will buy something from this very place.

This same stretch also housed the General Insurance Employees Union of which I was a member.

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The visits to BNHS as a student member is another memory still strong. I cannot forget the strong smell of naphthalene balls in the wooden drawers at the Hornbill House which stored the specimen of bird species many of whom had been shot by Dr. Salim Ali himself.

I still remember the admonition from Mr. Humayun Abdulali to rush back to Goa and stop people from hunting the frog- Rana tigrina instead of spending time with dead birds. I also remember the friendly advice from Mr. Ulhas Rane at the early stages of my interest in birds.

 There are also those memories of a few minutes spent on the Queen’s Necklace late in the evening whilst staying at the Guest House of my employer United India Insurance Co. located close to Express Towers.

The Churchgate station and the cinema opposite. India’s first Revolving Restaurant, a place never visited but in memory.

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The examinations of Chartered Insurance Institute, London, which I appeared for somewhere in this area will always be in my memory although I cant remember the exact building.

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The Taj Mahal hotel where I appeared for an exit interview by the CEO of my last employer (so far) in India. It was early 2009 and the hotel had just started functioning after the terrorist attack.

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Let me cut short the nostalgia part now although there are many more memories.

TheBlueDrive has been tracking the Lighthouses and we cannot default here. Mumbai seems to have one new and one dysfunctional lighthouse. There are some other structures resembling lighthouses. They are located in the Navy’s domain but can be photographed from a distance. The first one is certainly not a Lighthouse. The first one does not look like a lighthouse.

 

Mumbai docks and the harbour had a glorious past. Everything has its day. The importance of the port declined substantially after the JNPT across the harbour became operational with a container port. Mumbai would have been an impossible town at today’s volume of cargo traffic.

Mumbai’s Parsee landmarks are something which all visitors must have a look at although non-Parsees don’t have access to them. This includes the leafy area of Malabar Hills where the Tower of Silence is located. I wish every town in India had a green place like this.
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Not far from here is the world’s most expensive residence.

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And then probably the most famous Dargah in the world. Haji Ali. A large number of Bollywood movies have shown this for one reason or the other. Currently it is in the news because some women want to enter the part of the place where women are not allowed. You are right. Women are not reasonable.

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The other such popular appearances in Indian cinema are for the Sun & Sand Hotel at Juhu and the Gateway of India.  Every leading lady of Indian cinema in the 1960s, 70s and to a lesser extent 1980s has dirtied the waters of the swimming pool at Sun & Sand.

Whenever the destitute hero from UP or Bihar lands penniless in Mumbai, he finds solace in the groundnuts sold in paper cones at the Gateway. Later on he manages to buy the expensive properties at Juhu and Bandra. VT has been the favourite destination station of the Indian hero. Most of the time he landed here. A few times he also landed at Churchgate and Mumbai Central and did not make it big. Of late they come by air from Lucknow and Patna and land at Santa Cruz.

Bombay or Mumbai if you want me to relent, is an endless place and the space for me is limited. Thank you for reading.

21.10.2016

Delayed by non-availability of Internet.

 

 

 

 

44. MARVE HAMLA AKSA & MADH

You can cross over to Marve beach from Manori Koliwada. The creek is very small, hardly 100 meters. The crossing by ferry is for human beings and motorcycles only, no cars are allowed.

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THEBLUEDRIVE has to get back to the ‘mainland’, enter Greater Mumbai municipal area and get back to the coast from Malad via Mira-Bhayandar. Thank you.

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The places to be visited here are the Marve beach, a small stretch of sandy beach with a fishing harbor on the opposite side of the creek, overlooking the Esselworld park.

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HAMLA is a place totally under Indian Navy. Indian Air Force is also present in the area. Consequently, most of the seaside places are out of bound for civilians. I am sure they would chase us away after a single look at the cameras.

The other places on the seaside are Aksa which has a fort. It is with the Navy. One can see the outer portion on the seaside which is possible as there is an access road to a temple. Did not find any information about the fort. This is less than 40 Kms. from Mumbai.

 

One can see the new buildings which are coming up at Versova from here and also the vignettes of the Mumbai suburbs further afield. Drying of fish continues in the corner.

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We move on and find a small Lighthouse on the left. It is difficult to know if this is operational or not.

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The beach here is Madh.

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Madh is always referred to as Madh Island. It used to be once upon a time. On account of the silting these islands have become part of the mainland. The main commercial activity here appears to be hiring of seaside space for ‘shooting’. Making of movies, ad films and increasingly ‘pre-weddings’.

The road along has this tree with interesting shape.

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There is also a church in the way.

There is declaration here on the truck: Only the drunkards will get daughters in marriage.

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The places beyond this really fall into the great urban landscape of Mumbai. Versova is neither here nor there. It has always existed on the periphery of Mumbai city and it’s film industry.

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Juhu I believe has always been a part of metropolitan Mumbai. We did not spend much time on these places about which much has been written and filmed.

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When you cross this new bridge from Bandra, you are into Mumbai-Proper.

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16.10.2016

 

43.DONGRI, UTTAN, GORAI & MANORI

Vasai creek forms the border of Palghar and Thane districts of Maharashtra. We had come up to the Fort of Vasai in the last post. Now if you want to cross the creek and go southwards, you need to board a train. Cars are not allowed on board. You please go back to the mainland eastwards and drive south. How does the train do it? Of course on a bridge. Not one, two bridges. How? There is an island in-between. It is called Panju island. This island is accessible only by rail and not by road. The island is inhabited. It even has farmland. If you stand at the fishermen’s jetty at the end of Vasai fort you can see not only the island but also the trains rushing across towards the north. Photography, regrettably, is prohibited from this jetty.

The coastal places north of Mumbai city in the districts of Palghar and Thane are divided neatly into three packets separated by creeks.

The first one is between Vaitarna river and the Vasai Creek, the second one is between Vasai Creek and Manori Creek and the third one is from Manori Creek to Malad creek.

Except for the bridge on the upper reaches of Vaitarana river, there is no bridge connecting these ‘packets’.  This appears to be a conspiracy – not allowing the Mumbai Metropolitan region to spread northwards.

We have already gone through the first one in the last post. Let us have a look at the second packet.

This consist of Dongri, Uttan, Gorai and Manori, north to south just across the Vasai Creek.

Dongri is a fishing village snuggled into the hillocks close to the sea. To-day is the day of feast. Feast of Our Lady Fatima. The celebrations are more on the boats than on the land. The boats are all decorated for the occasion.

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Check the atrwork on the hull.

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The feast is being celebrated at Dongri as well nearby Uttan but later on in the evening. We need to move.

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You must have heard of Dharavi, the place is Mumbai which is billed or at any rate was billed as the world’s largest slum. It is named after Goddess Dharavi who hails from here.

There is a small wetland between Dongri and Uttan which afforded us a minor birding opportunity. The Asian open-billed stork is finding his food here.

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The dominant faith in the area is Christianity. One can find crosses at every corner, in different shapes and sizes and colours.

Marigold flowers embellish most of the crosses. The same flowers are also used by Hindus as offering to their Gods and Goddesses except that the Hindu garlands have mango leaves interspersed in the flowers. The Christians do not seem to be using them.

In case you don’t find the flowers, it is alright to use some plastic.

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The shrine of Our Lady of Vailankini dominates the landscape at Bhate Bandar of Uttan.

The Church, the Holy Cross and Rosary on the hill nearby and the depiction in stone of biblical incidences.

 

Here is the story of Samaria woman.

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The shoes are designer. Louis Vuitton.

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There is a lovely flag post in the compound of this church.

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The flag-post has a lot of images of fish. I am not sure if this has biblical connotations or is related to the profession of the people around.

The major occupations appear to be growing rice, fishing and seafaring, the last one perhaps is the legacy of the Portuguese. It still continues so much so there are specialist consultants in that field advertising their services.

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Dongri, Uttan and Gorai are hilly. The hills run parallel to the sea. Most beaches are rocky with a few small stretches of sandy stretches. The lack of sandy beaches is made good by beautiful views from the hillsides.

Uttan has a Lighthouse, overlooking the sea and a couple of islands with structures on them. One of them appears to be an old Lighthouse not in use, another one with two large crosses signifying Christian faith of the people.

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Manori beach is rocky but very pleasant and natural.

There is a Dargah on the seaside behind which we stayed and were probably blessed by the Saint overnight.

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The local legislator has provided cement chairs around the Dargah advertising himself nobody appears to be using them.

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The Gorai is the place made famous by the Esselworld amusement park and the Pagoda.

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The end of the coastal road takes you Manori Koliwada which is the ferry crossing which would take you to Marve Beach and to the third ‘packet’- MARVE-HAMLA-AKSA-MADH.

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16.10.2016

suryakiran.naik@gmail.com

 

 

42. TUNGARESHWAR,ARNALA & VASAI

After you cross into Maharashtra from the Gujarat coast, the coastline is fairly continuous without any major incursion of seawater on the land side. At Dahanu there is a small creek which I have described earlier on this blog and then the coast is continuous until one comes to Vaitarana river which is a major river displacing the monsoon waters from the Western Ghats into the Arabian Sea. It also has ingress of seawater up on the landside at high tide.

It is here that the Western Ghats start showing their glorious heights and the greenery.

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Vaitarana is used extensively for extracting sand for the construction industry up north in Mumbai and the suburbs.

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Bullock carts are used on a large scale.

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We head for Tungareshwar Wildlife Sancturay which is contaguous to Sanjay Gandhi National park. After the recent rains the place is wet . We drive upto a certain distance and then stop. An autorikshaw was following us. He knows how far we can go. His three-wheeler can go much further than our 4-wheeler. Price is negotiated , our car parked and we go. He has agreed to take us up to a temple perhaps a kilometer and a half up the hill.

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Watch for this movie about Tungareshwar Mahadev at the cinemas in your town. releasing shortly.

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The greenery is really good and deep, typical of the tropical rainforest.

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The tribals struggling for the firewood is a recurring theme.

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We could find this freshwater landcrab making eyes on us on the road.

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The Flora part of this forest should be quite good, going by the wildflowers on the way.

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We cross two streams where the Autorikshaw man needs us to get out and walk.

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And then he runs out of fuel. Of course, he wants us to walk up to where the car is parked. No, no refunds, no concessions. In fact he has given us exemption from pulling the vehicle which is normally expected of the customers. He respects age.

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We get back to the main road and goback to where we should be: the coast. We should be at Arnala Fort and Arnala town. And it starts raining. Hevay rains which confine us to a shabby room near Arnala beach for more than a day.

The next day morning we make an attempt  to cross the creek to go to the fort which is on an island inhabitated by more than 2000 people.

One has to go into the water waist deep at low tide, get on to a boat and then cross to see the remnants of a fort built by the Europen tormentors of my ancestors. We decide not to. In any case the knowledgeable people in town have already informed us that there is nothing on the fort except the smell of drying fish.

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There is a Lighthouse in the town very bear to the fish market where we bought our fish last night. The owners of the lodge (they call them resort) were good enough to clean and cook it for us.

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And then a man in uniform appears. He threatens actions against us for using our cameras. What about those using their mobile phones? they are small and not dangerous. We decide to bid goodbye to this place. We accept our defeat in not conquering Arnala Fortand decide to try our luck at Vasai Fort.

On the way one can see two things reminiscent of my native Goa. Chruches and Anglers.

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Vasai must be the most extensive fortified area of an European power on Indian soil still extant.It is worth seeing. It is close enough to Mumbai to make a day trip.

Apart from the history it is certainly a good area for those intersted in Birds and insects including butterflies tovisit this place.

One should be preapred to spend almost a full day to  explore.

There are two Baobabs in the fort, probably planted after the fort was built. The statue of Chimaji Appa is certainly a new addition. He had conquered the fort from Portuguese.

Posted 11th October 2016

41. MAHIM, KELVA, BHAVANGADH, SHIRGAON.

From Tarapur/Dandi, the obvious destination is the district Headquarters Palghar. At the last moment we decide to take a turn to the coast southward and find accommodation at the seaside. There are two villages offering accommodation- Mahim and Kelva. Since we are close to Mumbai let me caution the readers that this Mahim is different from Mahim, Mumbai 400 016. This is a small village and has a beach and a resort. We have lunch at the resort and move on to Kelva to spend the night.

The beach happens to be a fabulous location. I don’t know of any other place having a Fort in the midst of a sandy beach which can be accessed on foot. One has to see it to believe it. Very underrated location on Maharahstra coast.

 

It is a small fort but unique. The fort can be entered  into only at high tide and by a boat, unless you are a good swimmer. Otherwise you will have to carry a ladder. the lower part is not habitable as it would be under water at high tide. This one must have been used for reconnaissance.

The beach is not great but looks rich in marine life. I found three different species of shells which I do not sem to have in my collection.I need to recheck, later.

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We are told there is another fort nearby. We get up in the morning and start driving to the Bhavangadh Fort. The road is bad. By now we have gotten used to the good roads of Gujarat and the smaller roadside Maharashtra roads look horrible. We reach the fort. The site is beautiful. The fort must have been constructed by a poor man. The stones are rough and suggestive of poverty of the owners by the standards of people who build forts. There is a well on the Fort which is being still used by the villagers down below. It is interesting to see well water at a height being used at a lower level. And they use a pump.

 

Some pictures from the fort.

After this  fort we drive on without a map, just to explore the place. It is beautiful. The place we reach is called Shirgaon. It has a beautiful beach and a beautiful fort. I understand that this fort was built by the Dutch. Need to verify.

 

We enter the fort and meet a person working for the ASI contractor. The fort is under renovation but yes, we can look around. The fort was built by the Dutch. As the British stayed here longer, we have ignored the other European colonizers of this country. There are number of locations which have had French, Portuguese, Dutch and even Danish presence along India’s coast.

A local dignatary kicked the bucket last night.The school was closed and the boys were frolicking in the fort when they found this girl.

Shirgaon beach is beautiful. It is a cove and the sand quality is much better than what we have seen along the beaches of southern Gujarat and northern coast of Maharashtra.

The Lighthouse that you see there is the Satpati lighthouse. It was closed, locked.

We are informed that we can cross the creek here and go north to Dandi. We drive up to this place to be told that we can cross but not the car. Thank you. It was an effort and test of my driving ability in reverse to get back to the road.

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All this time this little one is curiously observing our movements. The younger people are justified in their doubts about the intelligence of the older ones.

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30.09.2016 & 01.10.16s

 

suryakiran.naik@gmail.com

Posted on 07.10.2106

 

 

 

 

40. FLAGS ON FISHING BOATS ON GUJARAT COAST

All fishing boats on the Gujarat coast of India fly a flag or a number of colourful flags.

The possible reasons are:

  1. Recognition or spotting by other boats against the all-blue colour of the sea.
  2. Identification of the owners and by implication of the crew.
  3. To add colour to the otherwise uniformly blue colour of the sea.
  4. To decorate the boat.
  5. To seek the blessings of the deity.

This is Porbandar fishing harbour. The Flag that you see uppermost is of the association of the fishermen. It is not on any boat, it has been hoisted on top of a building across the creek.

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THEBLUEDRIVE have come across a variety of flags on the Gujarat coast. The dominant theme is the God, the deity. The fishermen are  either Hindu or Muslims and the flags reflect their faith.

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The fifth reason given above appears to be the predominant one. This is understandable. Fishing on high seas for over a month at a stretch is a tedious and risky business. One has to depend on luck to find the fish and on the God to survive the storms and other dangers. Irrespective of their efficacy the flags and the images on them should be a source of succour or, at any rate, of hope.

The Muslims though large in number in the region and also in the fishing industry do not appear to be very particular about the flags they fly. The Quranic green appeared a few times.

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The Abbasid Sunni black currently used by ISIS was found flying at a place called Borsi alongside the national Flag of India. They did not have the inscriptions found on the ISIS flag.

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The National Flag is found in many shapes and sizes, with or without the Ashok Chakra.This one is at Umbergaon Creek.umbergaon1-2

Among the Hindu Gods, Hanuman appears to be the most popular.

 

Lord Shiva is in close competition in popularity.

 

His son is also seen occasionally.

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The OM also finds its place on some flags.

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We started our journey along the coast on 15th August. Most of the boats were being readied for the sea after the monsoon lay-off. It is quite possible that they received new flags along with a coat of paint. The flags in most of these photographs appeared new.

What appears most prominently on these flags are not the Gods, they are the Goddesses. The Devi, Maa. The fishermen seem to have more faith in them than their male counterparts. Khodiyar Maa is worshipped everywhere in Kutch and Kathiawad.

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There are others also whom the Boat-owners worship.

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One new addition to the Pantheon is the Devi Indra Krishnamurthy Nooyi currently of New York, NY, USA. They could not find an authentic image of her and had to make do with the corporate emblem of the company where she is employed.

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Jalaram Bapa, the saint also appears on the flags.
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The Brahmakumaris are also making their presence felt on the fishing craft.

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Nani Daman harbour offers a variety in terms of colours.

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and also the material used. Whilst most flags appears to have been made of cotton cloth this one appears to be made of silk.

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The sports enthusiasts are not to be left behind.The Mumbai Indians are here on Daman seas.

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Jhulelal the Sindhi saint was found on a solitary fishing vessel.

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On various days.

Posted on 6th October 2016.

 

39. TARAPUR, DANDI

We leave Dahanu early in the morning, driving on the coastal road covered with the greenery. The rains have continued into the last part of September this year and the monsoon greenery is maintained.

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Tarapur town has an established industry. Just about everyone here is busy making dies for jewellery. A number of small shops supply ready-made or made-to-order dies.

 

Tarapur has a Portuguese fort. Now completely surrounded by the town. The growth of vegetation is unbridled; the access road has become a marsh. We had to satisfy ourselves with external views.

The side facing the sea is in reasonably good condition. The Portuguese inscriptions are still legible. I can understand 1893, presumably the year of construction.

The fort has a Lighthouse inside, not functional.

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The operational tarapur lighthouse is a few kilometers ahead along the coast. One has to walk through a village called  Ghivali

to reach it.

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This is a funny place. A god road leads you up to the village and then it terminates. You walk through the village and anothercement road appear that takes you to the Lighthouse through a mangrove forest hosting a lot of life.

 

The village has a temple of  Devi.

ghivaliIndia’s first Nuclear Power reactor and research facility is visble from here.

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The vast area covered by the mangroves in the vicinity of the nuclear power facility is sued for catching crabs. here are the bikes of the crab-hunters.

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We come back to Tarapur and move southwards. The next place is a village called Dandi. This Dandi is in Maharashtra.

Driving through the narrow lanes of Dandi fishing village was a challenge, overcome.

The BARC facility is more clearly visible from here. The stand is for drying fish.

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29th Sept. 2016

Posted on 5.10.2016

 

38. ZAI, BORDI, GHOLVAD, NARPAD, DAHANU

We leave behind Gujarat and enter Maharashtra State after more than 6 weeks. The entry point is a village called Zai with a beach and is followed by a small town with the name Bordi. One thing strikes you at Bordi. This is a place where Chikoo ( Sapata) is grown in large quantities. Processing of the fruit also appears to have started. Various products are available.

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Here on the border I see my brother after a long time. I did not see him in entire state of Gujarat. Only an angler knows the pleasure of angling, irrespective of the equipment used. I dropped out of angling for this tour (actually removed my equipment from the packing) as this activity is very time-consuming and when I saw this, I cursed myself.

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Angling is for the men. The boys can have their own methods of fishing.

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The other thing about Bordi is that it has a number of educational institutions. Schools, colleges, vocational training institutes, all located by the seaside.

At Bordi we take a detour in the interior. The green here is greener than anywhere else. Verdant is the right word. This is a tribal dominated area growing rice. The quest for firewood and the women’s efforts in that field are all too visible.

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Bordi has a Parsi Fire Temple.

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And a monument commemorating India’s Independence day as well the Republic Day.

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Gholvad is not far from Bordi. These small villages always mesh into each other. For the locals Bordi-Gholvad does not make much difference. The coastal roads are quite narrow but not dangerous if you drive carefully.

Across the Bordi beach we can see a temple on beach. The deity is called Matsya Devi or something similar. We go to the village to know more about it.

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A long time ago a huge fish was found on this beach, dead. people in the village became sick and started dying, presumably due to the putrefaction caused by the large whale (presumably). I am told the big fish’s bones are buried under the temple. To prevent more people vanishing, someone vowed to build a temple. None can say exactly when.

The road ahead is very close to the sea and takes us to Chikhali and then to Narpad. Our intention was to end the day at Dahanu but we find a place to stay at Narpad beach about 6 Kms. from Dahanu town. Nothing in the village except the beach with nice sunset view.

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We start the next day with Dahanu. This is Taluka headquarters and has a town square, a railway station and a fort.

The main square is called Bal Gangadhar Tilak Chowk and has this sculpture.

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The fort is dilapidated. Nothing to write home about. A smallish fort on the creek currently houses some government offices. It was built during the Delhi Sultanate rule over Gujarat and adjoining  Maharashtra.  The way it is maintained, it will not last long.

Dahanu has a rudimentary Lighthouse.

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There is a sister-town called Chhoti or Lahan Dahanu across the creek. Looks like a fishing village.

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The separating bridge is used by  vehicles and fishermen for drying fish.

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The industrial face of Dahanu is the Reliance Thermal Power plant. as seen from the bridge.

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Near Bordi a tree converted into God.

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28th/29th Sept 2016.

Posted on 5th September 2016

 

37. UMBERGAON & SANJAN

We leave Daman and enter the State of Gujarat once again for the last leg of the journey ( in this state) of this tour. The distance is short but the countryside is enjoyable. Umbergaon is the last Taluka of Valsad district which is the southern-most in the state.

The places on the way from Daman to Umbergaon are small villages. Kalay, Phansa, Maroli, Nargol, Tumbh and Dandi. Incidentally this is the third Dandi we are coming across on the coast.

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I wouldn’t  mind driving forever if the roads are like this.

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On the western side the sea and the creeks continue their presence.

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This is the area from where the Western Ghats or Sahyadris announce their presence. Note the hills in the background in the picture below which are towards the east. The main range is not far away.

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Cows in Gujarat have a special liking for the sea.

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The plantation on the beach and the Church at Dandi.

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Nargol comes before Umbergaon and is separated by a creek to be crossed by two bridges. Nargol has sizable Parsi population and an Agiyari- Fire Temple.

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As we cross the bridges towards Umbergaon we see this structure at a distance towards South East on the mouth of the creek. We are told that it is an observation tower for the Customs. I wish they allow me to stay there for a few days.

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Umbergaon by itself is a commercial place with a lot of industries. We stayed at Umbergaon Club Resort which is frequented mainly by business travellers.

One important historical place near Umbergaon is Sanjan. Parsis perhaps consider it more important than Udvada. Apparently their  alighting at Sanjan was the largest. Sanjan along with Udvada and Umbergaon and important places in Parsi history.

The Agiyari, Fire Temple at Sanjan is very close to Maharashtra border, separated by only a small stream. In fact one can walk across, have a drink and come back into Gujarat.

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When the Parsis decided to record their presence in India and store their history, they chose Sanjan. The commemorative tower and the Time Capsule (buried) are here, a couple of hundred meters from the fire temple.

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Difficult to read what is written up there but I am sure the Paris surely can spend some money to clean up this important place.

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The fishing harbour which is just across the Lighthouse from Umbergaon has a beach with Mangroves on very dry land at low tide. Please note the grass growing around the Mangroves, very unusual.

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Umbergaon itself has a Parsi Agiyari and surrounded by some old Parsi homes some distance away from the beach.

 

The beach at Umbergaon has the pines planted by the Forest department like at many other beaches in Gujarat. The Lighthouse is close by. It is an unique triangular structure. We are welcome to go up on payment of a fee. No, there is no lift but it has been ordered. You can come back when it  is installed. Meaning- please go away.

I make some new friends at the tea stall on the beach. No, I am not an ex-serviceman.

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27th & 28th Sept 2016

Posted on 2nd Oct. 2016.

 

36. Daman & Silvasa.

From Udvada , the Union Territory of Daman which is a part of Daman & Diu ( the latter is away at a driving distance of 636 Kms and is 199 Kms by air) is practically at a walking distance, at least the river crossing if not the town.

I remember Daman from my childhood for two reasons. Government servants from Goa were sent to Daman on punishment transfers. (At this time Goa, Daman & Diu was one single Union Territory and before that one single Portuguese colony- Estado da India). The second reason is more interesting as it pertains to an expression in Konkani language.  ‘Damao paishan ghodo’. One said this in exasperation when another one describes how cheap and inexpensive things are at another place. Literally it means – In Daman a horse is sold at one paisa. But then Daman is far away!!

I expected Daman to have a sizable Roman Catholic population as it was under Portuguese rule between the years 1531 to 1961. Surprisingly the population is very small about 3000 or roughly 1.5% of the population. They have 8 places of worship some of them more than 400 years old.

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One of our old friends  Mr. & Mrs. Mukund Phadanvis have joined us driving 310 Kms. from Pune.  We stay at Nani Daman and start the day by driving across the river to Moti Daman. It is a very short distance away. One has to just cross the bridge. The old bridge had collapsed in 1983 drowning 23 people. It is not in use now. The new one is not visible in this picture.

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Daman is divided into Nani Daman (small Daman) and Moti Daman (Big Daman) separated by Damanganga river. Interestingly Moti Daman is smaller than Nani Daman and also has most of the commercial activity (which is Hotels and Liquor shops) . Both Damans have a Portuguese each. Portuguese were fond of building forts, they left behind a large number of them. Most of them are in bad shape now.

The Moti daman fort is larger of the two. This appears to be the older place and with a lot of Portuguese landmarks.

 

One can see 3 churches within the Fort and one outside. This one, the Church of our Lady of Remedios  is outside and is of 1607 vintage. Currently under renovation.

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The Moti Daman Fort also has the offices of the Daman Municipality- 1581 !!!!!!

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Near the Municipal  square which has a small garden , beside and besides the Municipality offices are two churches. This one is of Our Lady or Rosario with nice wood carvings on the altar.

This one is Church of Bom Jesus. ( Holy Jesus)

The Fort in Nani Daman is smaller and comparatively well maintained. The apparent reason is that it has a school, a church and an operational commentary. It is close to the jetty which is used by fishing boats.

The fishing jetty.

 

As per 2011 Census , Daman has a sex ratio of 618 females per 1000 males.

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Nani Daman has a Parsi Agiyari or Fire Temple. The notice of non-Parsis being disallowed inside is in Portuguese. Arguably the only one of its kind in Portuguese language. It says Sacred Fire of Parsis. Entrance prohibited. I am sure they did not mean to prohibit all.

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The Jain temple in the town is quite nice as most Jain temples are.

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SILVASA is in a maze. It used to be a part of (Portuguese) Daman district. In 1954 it was overrun by Indian nationalist but the de jure control remained with the Portuguese until 1961 when it became part of Indian Union as a Union Territory but not a part of Daman. When I say Silvasa I meant the ‘enclaves’ of Dadra and Nagar Haveli which are two different territories within the State of Gujarat but administered separately. Geographically it is a big confusion. You don’t know when you enter and come out of Gujarat and enter Dadra & Nagar Haveli and the other way around. The only signs are the liquor shops and bars. They are present in D & NH and absent in Gujarat, to resume again in Daman.

We drive through an industrial area in Dadra , visit a dam in Gujarat and then visit a Butterfly park in Dadra & NH. All the time one feels that the UT administration is better than that of the State.

25th & 26th Sept. 2016

Posted on 2.10.2106